On The Mekong River, Finally..

Monday February 25. 28 C. Muggy.

Up at 5:00, made coffee, got cleaned up and put our bags out before going down for coffee. We took a wee wander around the hotel grounds and then it was time to board the bus for the journey to the ship.

The six hour ride was like sitting in wide business class seats as the Cambodian countryside rolled by. It is definitely a poor country, poorer than Vietnam. The people in the country do not seem to be as industrious as the Vietnamese farmers and country folk. Every home seems to have a couple of hammocks slung by them and many were occupied. I don't remember seeing one in Vietnam.

We stopped for a box lunch about half way through the journey.

Upon embarkation we were all marched to the dining room where a light lunch and cool beverages were served. The Hotel Manager gave us a briefing about the basics of what we need to know and safety drill. 

Next we were escorted personally to our cabin which was a great surprise to me. Bigger and grander than I remember booking. It appears to be about the same size as the beautiful Sofitel Hotel we just left, and as well furnished.

Fellette was delighted to finally unpack our two carry on cases for the first time in a week, The cruise is a full week. Nice to be aboard and settling in on a very nice River Boat.

This is a rushed blog, I may lose the Internet as we are pushing off right now!

On the hotel grounds this AM.

On the buses to the ship.

Lunch stop.

Fancy Cambodian home.

Countryside abode.

Town by the ship.

???

Boarding at 1:30.

Bathroom.

Bedroom.


 Sitting area.
Entrance.

View from the balcony.

Same.

A quick trip to a Temple [!], before back to the boat to get ready for dinner, etc.

Lots to learn about this country.

Shrine.

Cool monk!

Nothing is wasted.

Cool Moms.


Angkor Wat Sunrise...

Sunday, February 24. Very warm, 32 C, but no too much humidity it seems. 

Well, we were up drinking coffee at 3:45 AM this morning getting ready for the adventure to be at Angkor Wat for the sunrise. Part of 'The Total Experience"

We hopped on the buses around 5:00 and were at the 'Site' in about five minutes, but the Temple Pass Check and a few other starts and stops took some more time.

We then disembarked and all 28 of us on that bus started the 1000 yard trek in total darkness to who knows where. I thought to myself' 'We are being led by a Khmer guide in the darkness to???' just for a moment because some terrible things took place in this country during the Khmer Rouge period in the1970's.

I found it amazing that we all arrived safely at some spot after not being able to see anything except in the beam of a small flashlight that two people shared.

I think the highlight of the Trek in was the sloped ramps, up and down, on a floating bridge that the Japanese erected across the moat in front of Angkor Wat as the original stone bridge undergoes very long and very expensive repairs.

We were advised to stop in what I thought was the middle of a clearing but as my eyes adjusted to the slowly-breaking dawn I realised there was small lake there with hundreds of tourists seated on the ground facing a forest.

As visibility improved more I saw that it was not a forest but the Temple Angkor Wat itself. The early arrivals were there to get the mirrored-reflection photograph of the temple in the lake. Of course!

Eventually after considerable time for good conversation with our fellow travellers, about every subject except Angkor Watt, the orange sphere, the sun, started to rise from the real forest beside the temple. In a matter of minutes it was done, over and full daylight! We then started the actual tour around and in the temple.

This temple was built in 1100 and is in far better shape than the ruins we saw yesterday, built centuries earlier.

The cause of the Angkor empire's demise in the early 15th century long remained a mystery. But researchers have now shown that intense monsoon rains that followed a prolonged drought in the region caused widespread damage to the city's infrastructure, leading to its collapse. It remained hidden and forgotten about until 'discovered' by the French I believe and restoration started in the early 1900's. 

It will never be finished, in my opinion, there is just not enough money in the world available for this type of project.

We ascended, via a set of wooden stairs at an angle of 70 degrees, a route to the uppermost level of the Temple and did a panoramic walk around the whole thing.

I was proud of some of our group who did the round trip even though it was beyond their comfortable ability, but their determination won out and they did it.

The cause of the Angkor empire's demise in the early 15th century long remained a mystery. But researchers have now shown that intense monsoon rains that followed a prolonged drought in the region caused widespread damage to the city's infrastructure, leading to its collapse

.
Around 8:15 AM we started to walk the same 1000 yards in daylight that we had walked a few hours before, back to the buses, and there were  hundreds of buses.

During this time hundreds, if not thousands, of Chinese tourists arrived for a more sensible hour tour of the Temple. The rising Chinese Middle Class, now has the money to travel and they are changing the face of tourism around the world, literally.

We were back at the hotel shortly after nine, washed up a bit and headed for a very, very, welcome and hearty breakfast! We certainly got our exercise and steps in today, again!

Pre-dawn picture of the Temple, you can see why I mistook it for a
forest in the dark

Four of our group having a pleasant chat as dawn broke. I took this picture in complete darkness, hence the fuzzy picture. You get the sense of adventure that some of us older folks have from this photo. No complaints, 'go with the flow' Canadians left from Victoria, Brits Right, from Yorkshire.

Waiting for the sun, for light, it was already muggy! Fellette on the left.

Not Stonehenge, but Angkor Wat at sunrise.

Just a cool shot across the lake,

The sun rises!

Fellette and a fellow traveller whose husband was lost somewhere in the crowd taking pictures.


A set of steps, restored, leading to a platform. That restoration was done with US money I believe, likely costing millions. Admirable I suppose, but there are better causes...

Up we go into a jungle of rooms, side rooms and stairs.

One little wall, with thousands of carvings in the stone, some restored, some not.

A Buddhist Shrine in there, with an Alms Box.

The original stairs were of course, stone, at 70 degrees! No handrail!

A balloon ride is available, $20.00 six minutes.
Barely visible within slot.

Four delightful beauties.

Typical tower.

Our Motley Crew of 28. Fellette and I front right.

This is a floating bridge about 400 yards long that was an absolute riot to walk over in complete darkness. It did bounce and wobble considerably. Japanese money.

The very refreshing sight in the men's washroom at the hotel. These are neatly folded hand wipe towels with a flower to add a Touch of Class!

A young waiter brewed a pot of Ginger Tea for Fellette as we were seated at a table for two tonight when Fellette mentioned that she had a cold. Thoughtful.


** . ** . **

Fellette and I spent the rest of day lounging and relaxing at the hotel. Fellette's cold is progressing not too bad, but she is more comfortable here, than touring in town.

What a Wonderful Day We Had Today!!!


*** .  *** .  ***

I just have to add this as we start our journey tomorrow down the Mekong river that runs over 2700 miles from Tibet in the north down to the South China Sea below Vietnam.

We have had Vietnamese guides and tour leader for several days now. When we landed in Siem Reap, Cambodia, a couple of days a go I thought I detected a different feel to the place. Our Ama Waterways Tour Leader, a Vietnamese,  is with us all the way, from start to finish, every day. He is a wonderful and personable smart man

The 'Local Guides' were Vietnamese in Vietnam and are Cambodian in Cambodia. The Vietnamese Tour leader is on our bus, [there are three main buses]. 

I have been catching up on historical and current affairs regarding Vietnam-Cambodian relationships. It is far from good. Strained would be a modest term.

These two nations have been fighting and killing each other forever. I will not go into details, but I find it interesting that business and commerce seems to be able to forget about past issues and provide us tourists with 'A Most Wonderful and Magical Vacation', in spite of that historical and inbred hostility and mistrust between them. 

Nobody has mentioned a word of this and I have not brought it up in conversations. [My wife says that I thinks too much, I wonder...]

Temples Galore...

Saturday, February 23.

The second blog today, written after three hours in 32 C heat and humidity of about 85%.

Of course we knew it would be warm and of course we knew there would be temples and of course we knew there would be lots of people. But knowing it and experiencing it all are two different matters. 

We were bussed to a Ticket Centre where we were photographed and acquired a Temple Pass that cost U$62.00 for two days. [Paid for by Ama.] Your pass is required at every temple you visit.

The first one was Bayon Temple, where the 'Temple of Doom' was filmed and the second, a few kilometres away was Ta Prohm Temple. Between the two visits we visited the Elephant Terrace.

The temples around Cambodia were built between the first century AD and the 9th century [?]. Built by captured slaves from surrounding areas as what is now Cambodia was the strongman of the region, very, very powerful and somewhat nasty methinks.

Some invaders from a surrounding area brought the Khmher Empire to a halt in 1431 and the  surrounding homes were sacked and burned, except the stone temples, maybe only defaced, but burning and killing is much easier than dismantling 300,000,000 tons of stones that had been placed during the previous centuries. They were abandoned and lost until rediscovered around 1863. Restoration began in 1908 and is still going on.

Numerous wars and occupations have devastated the country for most of the last 100 years. The Khmer Rouge period in 1975 was when Pol Pot, the Marxist despot leader killed 2,000,000 people. Doctors, teachers even anybody wearing glasses was killed. They basically slaughtered the intellect population and the country is still feeling the results to this day. It is only now recovering. Doesn't history keep repeating itself!!!

The above is likely not exactly what happened, but it is the best I can do from taking notes from our guide on the bus this morning and a little help from Google on this free Smoking Hot Internet...

The crowds were overwhelming, this morning, the footing and stairs were very challenging, dare I say unsafe, and the heat/humidity was something we have never experienced. Near the end of the tour I had drunk over three bottles of water yet my urine looked like Lemon Jello in colour. So, in the interest of health, seriously, we opted out of the afternoon tour to see another temple. I was Gung Ho until that time but when I became a bit wobbly, we both made the same decision to chill out in the afternoon.

We had a very pleasant afternoon on the ground floor patio, listening to the birds that sound the same as Maui, there was a touch of a breeze that made it more pleasant out there. We had a dip in the tepid water and regained our equilibrium and prepared for another day.

Tomorrow, Angkor Wat Temple with a 4:15 AM rise to see the temple at sunrise. I suppose it is one of those things that you are supposed to do the 'Get the most out of the experience." I think I see a morning nap on the horizon tomorrow after that, around 10:30 AM.

Great experience today, no doubt about that.

In line for a Temple Pass.

Bayon Temple entrance. 

Inside is a Maze of rooms, walls, steps and courtyards.

Unbelievably, some of the original carvings are still legible, and also unbelievably, some countries, like Japan, India and now China are paying to have them refurbished. This one had a recent fix-up. Two sides of humanity, one defaces it, then another era decides to restore it!

Our guide, so proud of each stone and carving.

Some people opt for an elephant ride, no time in our group.

I deliberately did not publish pictures with the teeming crowds. This shot took some doing.

Our guide was an absolute expert with his ability to take pictures with any and all cameras and phones!

The place abounds with stacks and stacks of fallen or knocked down walls.

Some, with carvings carved centuries ago, some refurbished, some not.

My one 'monkey picture', almost like India. The temples are a mix of Hindu and Buddhist.

'Temple of Doom' territory. That tree may only be 130 years old.

We wish the crowds were that light!


The stairs and lack of handrails were a challenge to most. The footings required extreme caution everywhere for all.

Reading on the deck to recoup from the morning temple trip.

The pool beckons.

Refreshed after doing some laps.

The laundry came back and my shirts look brand new. 
The rest of the goods were as well pristine. In less than six hours!