The Mall to end all Malls...

As you know, Turkey and Istanbul are full of historical sites, many of Biblical importance. Paul the Apostle spent a great deal of time in Turkey. Some chapters in the bible are named after cities in Turkey: Ephesus, and Galacia are two, Cappadocia is also in Turkey. The Blue Mosque, Church of Sophia, and Topkapia Palace plus a myriad of other historical buildings are located in Istanbul itself. All 'must sees' for tourists.

The ship came in around 11 AM, and we were soon free to explore or go on ship's tours. We have been here before and decided weeks ago to explore on our own, and Cutlers were on a tour of their own. For some reason Moe did not book a tour here. So, in spite of all the great historical, biblical and magnificent monuments available to us three, we decided to go to the Grand Bazaar for the afternoon. [This is Saturday and the Bazaar is shut on Sundays.] 


The Grand Bazaar was opened in 1461, that was 31 years before Columbus bumped into North America. We poor Amsterdamians have no chance at all in bargaining with merchants that have 547 years of marketing experience in their veins. The Bazaar is one of the major tourist sites in all of Turkey. Not for shopping but for the "experience'. Granted, after you have wandered through and got lost in labyrinth of arcades and hallways for an hour or so you have about had it.




The Turks are not quite as bad as the Egyptians in the 'hassle factor' scale. If you genuinely say you are just looking, they are polite and let you 'just look'. However if you gaze too long or heaven forbid, pick something up you suddenly have a Siamese twin attached to you. The range of goods ranges from 50c trinkets to $20,000 carpets fit for a Palace.






Turks and Europeans smoke. The lingering tobacco smoke gets to you after a while and one needs some fresh air. The areas outside the covered bazaar, in all directions is an interesting place to browse and wander as well. Eventually your mind  can no longer absorb the goods on display, and you sort of shut down and want a respite. The problem is how do you find a quiet place? Answer, there is none. The journey back to the ship seems to take forever. There are so many Mosques, Churches, Synagogues and other tourist sites to see on the way back it all becomes a blur.


So, that was our first afternoon in Istanbul. A leisurely dinner, then, believe it or not a movie then to bed. The place went on daylight saving time so we put our clocks FORWARD one hour.

Where Are They Today?

Day 87 - At sea in the Black Sea.

Blame it on Barbara...

Istanbul is a blur. At this writing we are in the Black Sea and on the way to our one port in Russia tomorrow. It seems that the last few days have been a mass of confusion and endless activity. The end result is that I have not been able to give any thought or time to a blog. So, instead, I will explain what has happened without detail on all of it.

We sailed in late morning, Saturday. Cutlers went on tour and we never saw them until the next morning. Moe, Doug and Fellette went to the Grand Bazaar for the afternoon and stayed on the ship that evening. Barbara was in town, saw the ship come in and also went to the Grand Bazaar, she was staying at the Hilton and was to join the ship the next day. We never saw her. Clocks went forward as Turkey switched to daylight saving time. 

Next morning at breakfast we heard of Jim and Gail's wonderful day and evening filled with, food, drink, boat ride, and traditional Turkish entertainment, belly dancers. The Cutlers and Robins decided to go to see The Blue Mosque, Sophia Church, [museum], and Topkapi Palace. Moe stayed on board awaiting Barbara. The Robins returned to the ship by cab to see Barb and the Cutlers stayed in town.

We were back on the ship around two and Barb was in Moe's cabin so we had a visit, nice to see her, she looks wonderful. Mind you she should, she is about the youngest lady on the ship! Barb then came to our cabin for a quick e-mail. Then it is time to get ready for an early, [4.30] dinner. The reason for that is that the CEO of Holland America was throwing the Mother of all Parties in town for the entire ship. 1200 of us were treated to an evening of Turkish Delights. The event was held in what is called a cistern. Cisterns were built to hold water for when the city was under siege. This unbelievably beautiful cistern has been converted into a humungously big banquet hall. 






Our cistern was built 1600 years ago! Hard to believe. The food and drink and entertainment went on forever.







Then, back to the ship where, on the covered middle deck they had ready for us the most elaborate dessert buffet I have ever seen in my life. The staff was all dressed in exotic costumes and at times you would think we were back in the land of Ali Baba and all that. Next to our cabin with sister and niece where we had tea. We watched the ship pull out of Istanbul and slip into the Bosporus. 

The catch-up went on too long and soon it was time to get some sleep from what seemed a never-ending two days. And, horror of horrors, the clocks go forward AGAIN as we move into a different time zone. 

No morning exercise, no Tai Chi today. Maybe a late breakfast and a brisk walk. Too much of everything the last few days, but nice to see Moe and Barbara so happy together.

Where Are They Today?

Day 86 - Istanbul, Turkey.

Who is this guy Ataturk?


Turkey, the country, is older than history. Istanbul, the fourth largest city in the world, is situated at a very strategic location and over the millennium has had a fascinating and complicated history. The first human settlement here was in the Copper Age around 5500 BC. King Byzas founded Byzantion here in 667 BC. The city was besieged by Romans in 196 AD. It then served as the capital city of the Roman Empire [330-395 AD]. Then the centre of the Byzantine Empire [395-1204 and 1261-1453]. In 1453 the Ottoman Turks then took the city, known by then as Constantinople. The Ottoman Empire was at one time the most powerful in the world but started a slow decline in the late 16th century.

The Turks got involved late in WW I on the wrong side! They sided with Germany. The famous or infamous invasion of Gallipoli, masterminded by young Winston Churchill, was an Allied disaster. The Turkish defenders held the mainly Australian and New Zealand, with British and some Newfoundlanders to a deadly draw. They were forced to withdraw with terrible casualties.

As we all know the Allies 'won' the war and as a result the victors dismantled what was left of the Ottoman Empire. One of the Turkish Army leaders at that defeat was a man known as Mustafa Kemal. He eventually went by the name of Ataturk, and rose to power. In 1923 Ataturk made Turkey a Republic and basically brought Turkey out of it's dark past and made it the vibrant country it is today. Ataturk is highly revered in Turkey, and by many people in the world. He is literally the "George Washington" of Turkey. In spite of all that Ataturk did, the previous Sultans are still looked upon with great respect.

One of the miracles that he accomplished was to make Turkey a secular country. That of course means 'not of the church', in this case, Muslim. For example Iraq and Iran are non-secular, there is no separation of church and state. Turkey, because of it's location is a hot spot in the world. It's neighbours are Greece, Romania, Syria, Iraq and a couple of other small volatile countries.

Turkey is hoping to get into The European Union but there is some opposition because of it's large Muslim majority. It will be interesting to watch that situation.

That is today's lesson according to Dough

This morning's sail-in was a somewhat chilly event. We came into view of Istanbul around 9 AM with heavy overcast, light fog and a very cold wind blowing on the water.





As we sailed past all that is expected on the skyline of Istanbul, The Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace, [really a complex of scores of buildings] and St. Sophia Church, any one of which are spectacular in their own right, it was bit too much to digest in one bite. Plus, a city of 15,000,000 people, with us only knowing one person there, Barbara...

E & O E [Errors and Omissions Excepted] Or is that expected?

Where Are They Today?

Day 85 - Istanbul, Turkey.

Moe's Visit to the Pyramids...

The ship docked at Alexandria, Egypt, around 4.30 AM. I phoned Moe to see if she was ready with fully charged batteries for both cameras, and plenty of water, she was up and ready to go. The ride from Alexandria to Cairo, [where the pyramids are] is about three hours. There were 24 buses waiting to take people on tours that day, 12 of which would be convoyed to Cairo. Moe was in group four so she was on her bus in jig time, before it was fully light out. After several minutes of co-ordinating security guards and escorts they were on their way. 

Apparently Moe's bus was somewhat less than 1/2 full. I suspect that many people cancelled their trip as a result of the 16 hour marathon two days earlier to Luxor. She was lucky enough to secure a choice seat near the front with a big clear window. Moe confessed to me that she rather sprawled out hoping to discourage any fellow passenger from seating next to her. [Because the bus was 1/2 full, this anti-social behaviour was regretted by her.] She was seated diagonally across from the 'handsome', suited, armed security guard. [Sort of like a stage coach with the guy 'riding shotgun'.] You can see his photo, he is the guy sleeping!


Moe introduced herself to the couple seated behind her and asked them to let the guide know that she was missing, if indeed she was, at the head count. [People have been known to miss the bus and be stranded. An 84 year old woman was left in Salalah after she wandered off looking for a toilet.]

After a bit of fussing to organize her survival kit for the day that included, umbrella, shawl, sunglasses, fan, water, box lunch for the ride in, two cameras and her small backpack, she was ready.

First stop was the stepped pyramid of Sakkara. These were basically the very first pyramids used for burials, and believed to be the oldest stone structure on earth, dating back to 2686 BC. That technology evolved into the traditional pyramids that are so visible near Cairo, which they later visited. 




Second stop was a bit of a break for souvenirs at Giza, and search out a toilet. [There is one on the bus that that is usually used as a last resort.] No major purchases there. She has been somewhat restrained in souvenir shopping so far.




Next stop was for a buffet luncheon at a beautiful hotel located almost adjacent to the pyramids. This hotel was built as a palace by a man for his wife. Moe was not too taken by the style of this now hotel because it was somewhat dark, however the view of the pyramids from the manicured grounds was what Moe called 'breathtaking'.




Back to the bus and off to the Giza Pyramids and the Sphinx. There was an option to go inside a pyramid, but were advised to go only if you really were up to it. The guide on the coach said that the opening is short and narrow, you crouch over and rather waddle in, meeting other waddlers on the way out. The guide also mentioned that latent claustrophobia has been known to set in once inside and there have been some screams heard by panicking visitors. Needless to say Moe did not go in. Moe was with a woman whose husband went into the pyramid so they stuck together for 'safety' from the camel people. 


The camel experience is a bit of a thing here. Many people want a photo of them on a camel, $5.00 is the price, so, up you go. Now, how much to get down? Different story. Some nastiness happens as a result. Also, camels themselves are miserable and have been known to bolt and run off, with terrified tourists astride! So no picture of Moe on a camel.



Back on the bus for a short ride to the Sphinx where chaos always seems to reign. Hawkers and little kids bothering you and right in your face. It is difficult to get a good shot there because of the crowds and also the lay of the land is not good for photography. 


The 'Pyramid Experience' is something that is fascinating to do for the first time. It is an awesome feeling to finally see and touch these things that we have heard so much about since our childhood. It is a bit of an ordeal, but if you are this close and do not do it, you may never have that opportunity again


Moe gave most of her box lunch to the guide to give to somebody who needed it more than she did. Hopefully some dirty little urchin got it.

Back on the bus to Alexandria, for the 3 hour ride and pulled in exactly 12 hours after leaving. By now there are about 30 small stalls of vendors displaying their wares and were there right up until we sailed for Istanbul at 8.00 PM.

Moe had dinner with us and said that she had an absolutely wonderful day. She has become an avid traveller and seems to adapt to the situation at hand remarkably well. Moe is a changed person since stepping on board 84 days ago in my opinion. For the better.

Tomorrow: We welcome aboard my Niece Barbara in Istanbul, Turkey

Where Are They Today?

Day 84 - At sea in The Mediterranean Sea approaching Istanbul.

What is in a name? Alexandria...

My mother's middle name was Alexandria, a few of our aunts were also named Alexandria. My nieces name is also Alexandria. Named not after Alexander the Great, but my Great Grandfather Alexander Hogg [although it has been suggested that a member of the British Royal Family of the day, Alexandra - Queen Consort of King Edward VII, could have been the inspiration].

There are apparently 32 cities around the world called Alexandria, all named after our Macedonian friend known as Alexander The Great. This city in Egypt was the first of that name, founded in 332 BC. He never saw this city, as he died a young man of 25.

Today it is a thriving fairly modern port, the biggest in Egypt. It also happens to be a very neat city to visit. This seems strange for me to say as I generally despise large cities. It has a wonderful setting on the shores of the Mediterranean with a large circular waterfront promenade called the Corniche. On one end of the arc is the site of the famous lighthouse, on the other side of the bay is the equally famous Library of Alexandria.


Both of those sites have an interesting background. First the lighthouse, which was built about 300 BC... It was around 400 feet tall, obviously built of stone, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. Sadly it was destroyed in the 8th century by earthquakes. However yesterday a guide told us is was destroyed in the 14th century. I find it hard to believe that it would last as long as it did, looking at construction methods. The pyramids are one thing, but a towering pile of rock 400 feet high is hard to imagine, even today.

The library was considered by some at the time as the centre of learning in the ancient word. Alexandria was then rivalling Rome and Constantinople for power and status. The library was founded at the beginning of the 3rd century, BC. It had over 700,000 scrolls. These scrolls were amassed over the years in a conscientious effort by scholars and authorities to have a copy, if not the original, of every worthy piece of literature, history and intelligent thought ever written.

The destruction of those scrolls is considered by some to have retarded the advancement of this world over the years. The time and cause of destruction of the scrolls is not definitively known, we were told. Some theories: 1. in 48 BC when Julius Caesar invaded Alexandria. 2. The attack by Aurelian, 3rd century AD. 4. By decree of Theophilus in 391. or 4. The Muslim invasion in 642.

Today, a modern world class library has been constructed with the help of UNESCO and many many countries. It appears that the library in Alexandria is regaining its status and lure to many visitors.

Imagine a city with such a history. One could hardly dig a hole or plant a garden here without stumbling upon some historic artifact. The area is known to have had some major earth slips over the centuries and interesting finds have been discovered and recovered just off shore in the vicinity. Such is the reason for suggestions about a 'Lost city of Atlantis' no doubt, wherever it may be located.



On the site of the old Lighthouse, known as 'The Pharos' is a most magnificient Muslim fort, Quaitbey, which used some of the ruins from that lighthouse in it's construction. The Fort is in beautiful condition, we and several hundred unruly Egyptian school children explored it yesterday. The kids were fine outside, but once inside seemed to turn into a band of marauding Muslims. Not too well behaved inside a fortress I am sorry to report. All of them wanting to practice their English on us.