There are about 1,100,000,000 people in India. Many, many millions are living in abject poverty so bad that anybody who has not seen it cannot comprehend it. To us, that problem is what basically occupies our mind, and how to solve it. To the Indian people it seems to be accepted, maybe not agreeing with it, but acceptance nonetheless. They would like to think that they are making inroads to solve it. Maybe they are, I have no way of knowing.
There are cities in India that we have never heard of that have populations of 10,000,000 or more. Unfortunately, the poor seem to migrate to the cities where they live in conditions that parents in the developed world would literally cry to witness. The children are the ones that break my heart. When I see a small child in rags without shoes sitting on a dirty filth covered lot that is called home, eating some bit of food with hair that has never seen a comb, I cry in my heart. Fortunately these scenes are not recorded on my camera, I cannot bear to photograph these happenings.
Coming back to the ship on the train when it stopped at a junction a small boy about eight came down the aisle with a broom made from twigs, sweeping the litter from the train aisle out of sight. He was sliding on his bottom, without shoes, wearing a filthy tee-shirt. When he reached a compartment opening he meekly put his hand, palm up hoping for some coins to be dropped in his hand. I gave, so did the Indian lady across the aisle. He is a beggar, his parents and grandparents are likely beggars and he will always be a beggar. For him, he is forgotten and there is no hope except improving his skills as a beggar.
Our journey to Bandhavgarh National Park took a day to get there and a day to get back to the ship. Our journey there entailed a flight across India to Mumbai, then another flight to Bhopal, then an overnight train journey to Katni, then a three hour road trip to the lodge. That in itself was an adventure. I am sure we have all experienced plane travel. Well India has a very efficient and well managed system of domestic flights. The planes were spotless, the meals were excellent, no brown bags here. The stewardesses are stunning, and there is no cause for concern or complaint on that end at all.
We were met at every stage of the trip except the change of planes by a driver and a guide from Indebo, our internet travel agent. It was excellent. When we were in the car on the way to the airport, they phoned the guide from Delhi and asked to speak to me and welcomed us to India. When we did arrive at our Game Lodge 24 hours later, they phoned again to make sure we had arrived. When we were in Mumbai at the end of the trip, they phoned again 10 minutes after the train arrived and asked if we saw tigers and how was the trip? What attention to detail and follow through! We spent scads more money and two months travelling in Australia in the fall, arranged by Go-Way Travel. I never heard a word when we got home from them. No follow up, nothing. Go-Way could learn from an Indian Internet Travel Agent! [Indebo Travel.]
The first day we had a tour of Chennai, formerly Madras, on the way to the plane. There are I believe 9,000,000 people in that city. In my opinion, it is not a pretty city. However there are some very attractive buildings that are in various stages of neglect. If you know some history I suppose it could be an interesting place.
Of course it is a port and it does have a very long and attractive, [from about 5000 altitude] feet, beach that runs for seven miles. On that beach some fishermen and their families live and work. Poor is not the word for their housing, plastic and rags for roofs and walls. Yes, they have children who are bought up in those places and maybe someday will marry and build one of their own, just like us!
After the flight to Bhopal, we were met again, by a car with driver and guide. They drove us through and around Bhopal on the way to the train. By now it is dark, making it more interesting. Somehow we stand out even though we are in a car. The car we are in is about the best looking car on the road so the locals know there are tourists in it. We are the novelty now. After a few futile attempts at an ATM we went to the train station where we put on our rucksacks and started the climb up the stairs across the tracks to find our platform.
The stench of urine was the first sensation, then the scores of people all looking at us, then the din of all the goings on at the station. We eventually made it to our platform, diligently following our guide all the while being accosted by porters who wanted to carry our packs. At the allotted spot, we milled about, starting to count the minutes, 90 of them, until our train was due to pull in.
Let me set the scene... First understand that people actually live on the station platforms, there is clean water, lighting, safety and cover overhead. Secondly Indian are great squatters. We need a bench or chair, they do not. So a whole family will squat and wait patiently for the arrival of their train if they are travellers. The women usually have a head shawl over their head and are often cradling an infant. People sleeping look more like a bundle of rags than a person. The older children may play happily in bare feet or sit and eat some food item with hands that seconds earlier were on the platform floors. I cringe!
There are vendors their selling hot coffee and tea, nibbles that look great but not for our stomachs. The cattle that have the run of the platform and tracks that also add to the colour. The signs in the train toilets advising not to use the toilets while the train is standing seem to fall on deaf ears. Occasionally lime is spread over obvious results of this non observance. My advice is do not look at the tracks!
Many Indians seem to have a much different idea of 'personal space' than we do. Whilst on the platform we would have conversations amongst ourselves and our guide. When we eventually boarded the train we had a gathering of about 12-15 men and boys wanting to hear us speak and standing mere inches away from us and looking straight at us like we were aliens. Which, in reality we are.
Eventually we were on board and to our allotted compartment: Two sets of upper and lower bunks, each with a blanket, pillow and clean pillow case, hand towel and two sheets. Make your own when you want to go to sleep. Within minutes there are scores of bare feet poking into the corridor as people bed down. We sat there for a while adapting to the situation. [?]
A reconnaissance trip to the toilets reveals one western and one eastern toilet. [For the uninitiated, a western toilet is what we all use, seat, etc. An eastern toilet has two foot stands and a hole in the stainless steel tray. There is a sink there, plus a tin to wash out the tray after use. No paper is provided, nor soap.
Suddenly we realize that our bowels and bladder are larger than we had ever imagined and we bedded down one by one, fully clothed. The train was exceptionally smooth, good tracks and suspension. We were scheduled to arrive at 4.50 AM. At that time we were ready, packs and all. The train sat there, one kilometre from our destination, watching the country come to life for 1 3/4 hours. During that time we observed that any field is a suitable place for any person, regardless of sex or age, to drop and squat and 'use the facilities'.
We were met by our guide, within feet of getting off. The walk for 150 meters through the station and surrounds to the car was a photographers dream. Unfortunately, again, we had to push on. We are just too darn obvious to get any candid shots of the activities before our eyes.
The three hour ride to the camp was also a delight to witness. Rural India. We came to the conclusion it is better to be poor in the country than poor in a city. We might as well have been riding in a chartreuse pumpkin we were so obvious, however there was no apparent resentment and a smile or nod usually got a grin or a wave or a bow in return.
At the camp, a hearty welcome, a drink and a scented towel to wipe our hands and face.
Bingo, home for three days. Custom made breakfast in short order, as we are the only guests at the moment we were seated in an open area and treated like Kings, or should it be Princes or Moguls?
Our accommodation was delightful, we had a duplex, and nicely furnished by many standards. There are 25 game lodges near the park, ours was about 500 meters from the park gate. We had a wander about and then a nap, we had been on the road 24 hours and our senses were fried.
At three o'clock we were off on our first game drive to seek out the elusive tiger.
That is for tomorrow.
For geography students, we were located on the tropic of Cancer and 80 degrees east longitude. [Approx]
No comments:
Post a Comment